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Edge Of The Woods Native Plant Nursery, LLC

Specializing in plants native to mid-Atlantic ecosystem

June 11, 2020

Living Mulch Part 3: Using Wood Mulch in the Landscape

If you have been fortunate enough to visit Edge of the Woods, you will have noticed mulch used throughout our own display gardens. Our Landscape Services Crew also uses mulch in new plantings and established beds where our clients prefer. We even use mulch in our own gardens at our homes!

However, we prefer to use as little as possible, and in place of mulch we use plants when we can. There is not always a plant for some spots, and there are places we like to keep a little tidier, so we turn to wood mulches.

In Parts One and Two of this series, we discussed the benefits of living or green mulch, in place of traditional wood mulch. This may seem like an easy process, but a living landscape takes time, care, and patience. In many cases, a green mulch will not fill in for 3 to 5 years (depending on species and plant spacing). Wood mulch is very useful during this transition time.

Mulch is used in a new planting until the ‘living mulch’ and other plants fill in.

What does mulch do?

Wood mulches, if used properly, provide nutrients, moisture conservation, and weed suppression. The mulch you choose should be of high quality. Low quality mulches often have weed seeds and artillery fungus spores, which can leave black spots on building siding and sidewalks.  By applying a light layer (2-3 inches) of high-quality mulch between newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials, you can reduce the amount of watering necessary to sustain the fresh planting. It also helps with weed suppression.

In our display gardens, we often mulch around edges to give the garden a distinguished look. Mulches are also useful for maintaining walking paths, covering soil in bare-spots, or around garden décor and accents that may be lost among taller plants.

What kind of mulch to use?

We carry three varieties of high-quality mulch: bagged & shredded pine bark, bulk cedar chips, and bulk hardwood mulch.  Avoid dyed mulches and mulch from shredded pallets, as these do not offer the same moisture retentive properties as shredded wood.

Be careful not to use TOO MUCH mulch!

Even if your mulch is high quality, too much is still not good! Beneficial bacteria and fungi utilize nitrogen to break down mulch. If you apply too much mulch, the population of these microorganisms soars, robbing nitrogen from the soil, and making it unavailable to your plants.

With a light layer of mulch, nitrogen leaching is a temporary concern and often not a concern at all. With a thick layer of mulch and sparsely spaced plants, you almost always will have a nitrogen issue. Plants “stuck” in these mulch deserts often show signs of nitrogen deficiency by turning yellow or having stunted growth. In addition, roots in search of oxygen and water sometimes grow into excess mulch. During dry periods the mulch will dry out and the roots will have no moisture. Another danger of a lot of mulch is that a light watering may only wet the mulch and the soil will remain dry.

The root flare of the tree should always be visible. Do not cover it with mulch.

Some other side effects of too much mulch include:

• Mulch piled up against the trunks of trees and shrubs creates decay and an entry point for diseases and insects. Pull back the mulch about 3 inches so it does not touch the bark.
• Too much mulch may delay the onset of dormancy in the fall by keeping root zone temperatures warm. It also can delay the breaking of dormancy in the spring due to cooler root zone temperatures.

If you can’t see the root flare of the tree, pull the mulch away. This young tree has too much mulch!

The Process of Establishing a New “Mulch-less” Garden

Step One – Choose Your Plants

Perennials have limited bloom times, so pay attention to foliage, texture, and the plant’s appearance during its entire life cycle. For example, Virginia bluebells can create a lovely, colorful groundcover. But by early summer, the foliage begins to yellow, and by mid-summer they are completely dormant underground.

Choose plants with different bloom times, and intermix with foliage plants, such as sedges. Any plant with persistent foliage all season could be considered a foliage plant, it does not have to be something with particularly “interesting” foliage. With a variety of plants, the contrasting leaf shapes, textures, and tones will provide plenty of interest, as well as build a nice habitat for beneficial insects and other desirable garden critters.

Step Two – Place Your Specimen Plants

Specimen plants are those plants you wish to stand out and make a statement; they are often larger, colorful perennials, shrubs, or small trees. Place them in a way that is pleasing to you. There is no magic right or wrong. Put them where you can see them from a window, or where you will see them as you drive in the driveway at the end of the day, or where you can enjoy them from your porch.  The choice is up to you and your preferences and what delights you in the landscape.

Step Three – Place Your Non-Living Things

Once your garden space is full of shrubs, trees, and or larger perennials, determine what non-plant things you may want to add to your garden, such as decorative rocks or logs. Place these items in their desired locations; consider partially burying some large rocks to create variability and depth in your space.

Step Four – tuck in your green mulch plants!

Green mulch plants are often lower, ground-hugging plants that will compliment your specimens, but will not take away from their appearance or compete with them. Sedges, wild ginger, pussytoes, moss phlox, violets, creeping juniper, ‘Snowflurry’ heath aster, and green-and-gold are all green mulch suitable plants that come to mind (though, there are MANY others).

Plants will gradually fill in and reduce the need for wood mulch.

Allow individual plants the space they need to reach full size. It is important to follow spacing recommendations, which for most lower ground-covers tend to be 8 to 18 inches apart on center. Plants will grow larger and faster if they are not initially crowded. At first your planting may look sparse and there will be a need to cover the bare ground in between your plants.

After your green mulches are placed, mulch with wood mulch between everything to prevent weeds and conserve soil moisture. Since you want your green mulches to spread, and specimen plants to remain healthy, mulch lightly, using only an inch or two of mulch. Keep mulch away from plant crowns to promote spreading and growth; pushing it up against plants will hinder their growth and spread.

Step 5 – Observe and Tweak

As your plants begin to spread over time, you will notice that you need less mulch because they are covering more ground. You might also notice areas where you need more plants, where the plants are not filling in enough to reduce your mulch needs.

It may take 3 to 5 years for plants to fill in as desired. As the years progress, you will see what plants are working well, and what is dependably spreading to create a groundcover, or green mulch. During this time, it is important to keep beds weeded to reduce competition to your plants. Traditional wood mulch can help alleviate some of this, but there will always be some weeds.

In time, from a combination of not allowing a weed seed bank to form through manual control, light mulching, and use of groundcover plants, you will find that there are far fewer weeds to worry about and your garden will require less maintenance.

Mulch is used to fill in areas between plants until the plants do the job completely.

In the next of this series we will outline how to transition an existing garden with wood mulch to a garden with green mulch.  Stay Tuned for Part 4.

Part One Living Mulch, an Ecological Alternative to Wood Mulch

Part Two Living Mulch:  Species Suggestions

Article by Brandon Everett / Native Plant Maintenance

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2 days ago

Want some blueberries this season? We have some beautiful blueberry bushes that will bear fruit this year.

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2 days ago

We just released gallon-sized native deciduous and evergreen azaleas/Rhododendrons. Color of flowers is noted after the botanical name :)

Azaleas (deciduous):

Flame azalea (R. calendulaceum) ORANGE
Pinxter azalea (R. periclymenoides) PINK
Piedmont azalea (R. canescens) PINK
Rose shell azalea (R. prinophyllum) PINK
Onocee azalea (R. flammeum) ORANGE
Swamp azalea (R. viscosum) WHITE
Sweet azalea (R. arborescens) WHITE
Coast azalea (R. atlanticum) WHITE

“Rhodies” (evergreen):

Great laurel (Rhododendron maximum) WHITE
‘Roseum Elegans’ (Rhododendron catawbiense ‘Roseum Elegans’) MAGENTA-PINK
‘Boursalt’ (Rhododendron catawbiense ‘Boursalt’) MAGENTA-PINK

We also have limited amounts of some in larger containers:

Great laurel (R. maximum) WHITE
Sweet azalea (R. arborescens) WHITE
Coast azalea (R. atlanticum) WHITE
Flame azalea (R. calendulaceum) ORANGE
Swamp azalea (R. viscosum) WHITE

We also have plenty of mountain laurel left (Kalmia latifolia) including:

Straight species
‘Olympic Fire’
‘Elf’ (dwarf)
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3 days ago
Climate-Wise Landscaping

Replace the seasonal non-native plantings that need to be replaced every few months with native perennial borders. And instead of wide spaces of mulch between the plants, place them close together so that there is little room for weeds. This practice is part of climate-wise landscaping because it reduces soil disturbances, which reduces the carbon released to the air and it reduces the large footprint of repetitive production and transport to supply new plants every season. The perennials will last for many seasons and require much less labor.
www.climatewiselandscaping.com
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2 weeks ago

Trees, trees, and more trees! Oh, and shrubs, shrubs, and yes, more shrubs! We have a wonderful selection of native trees and shrubs available now. Woody plants provide interest all year long, height to the garden, vital habitat for wildlife, and years of satisfaction as you watch your plant grow into a mature specimen! They are the foundation of our greater, forested ecosystem spanning most of eastern North America, which historically covered nearly 100% of Pennsylvania’s landmass. Today, forested land still makes up the majority of Pennsylvania’s total land area, at about 58% coverage. Below are some of the trees we have now, keep an eye for another post soon about shrubs :)

Available now:

*Trees*

Shagbark hickory
Shellbark hickory
Red maple
Sugar maple
Red oak
Willow oak
Black oak
Shumard oak
Pin oak
Beech
Sycamore
Fringetree
Red bud
Carolina silver bell
White pine
Red pine
Virginia pine
Pitch pine
White spruce
Red spruce
Eastern Red Cedar
American linden
Sassafrass
Bald cypress
Franklinia
Sweetbay magnolia
River birch
‘Heritage’ River Birch
Yellow Birch
Mountain ash
... See more

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Our mailperson loves the color of our yard, which is filled with native plants.

Mary - Fredericksburg, PA

Edge of the Woods Native Plant Nursery, LLC
A WBE Certified Woman Owned Business
Promoting Native Plants Since 2003

2415 Route 100, Orefield, PA 18069
(610) 395-2570
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